WORK IN PROGRESS
A cockatoo is any of the 21 bird species belonging to the family
Cacatuidae. Along with the
Psittacidae family (the true parrots), they make up the order
Psittaciformes. The name cockatoo originated from the Malay word
kakaktua, meaning older sister (from
kakak, "sister," and
tua, "old").
Cockatoos share many features with other parrots including the characteristic curved beak shape and a zygodactyl foot, with two forward toes and two backwards toes. They different however in a number of ways, including the headcrest and their lack of the Dyck texture feather composition, which gives many parrots their iridescent colors. Cockatoo species are also, on average, larger than the true parrots (however, the cockatiel is a small cockatoo and the very large parrots include the Hyacinth Macaw by length and the Kakapo by weight.)
Cockatoos have a much more restricted range than the true parrots, occurring naturally only in Australia and nearby islands. Eleven of the 21 species exist in the wild only in Australia, while seven species occur in Indonesia, New Guinea, and other south Pacific islands. Three species occur in both New Guinea and Australia.
Species list
Subfamily Microglossinae
Palm Cockatoo,BP2,
Probosciger aterrimus
Subfamily Calyptorhynchinae
Red-tailed Black Cockatoo,
Calyptorhynchus banksii
Glossy Black Cockatoo,
Calyptorhyncus lathami
Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo,
Calyptorhyncus funereus
Short-billed Black Cockatoo,
Calyptorhyncus latirostris
Long-billed Black Cockatoo,
Calyptorhyncus baudinii
Subfamily Cacatuinae
*Gang-gang Cockatoo, GG2,
Callocephalon fimbriatum
*Galah,Rose Breasted, RB2,
Eolophus roseicapilla
Long-billed Corella,
Cacatua tenuirostris
Western Corella,
Cacatua pastinator
Little Corella,Bare Eyed, BE2,
Cacatua sanguinea
*Major Mitchell's Cockatoo, Leadbeater, MM2, LB2,
Cacatua leadbeateri
Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, SC2
Cacatua galerita
Subspecies of SC2
Greater Sulphur Crested, GSC2,
galerita galerita
Eleonora, E2,
galerita eleonora
Fitroyi, F2
galerita fitzroyi
Triton Greater Sulphur Crested, T2,
galerita triton
Lesser Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, LSC2,
Cacatua sulphurea
LSC2 Subspecies
Abbotti ( sulphurea abbotti)
Citron, C2 (sulphurea citrinocristata)
Djampeana (sulphurea djampeana)
Occidentalis (sulphurea occidentalis)
Timor (sulphurea parvula)
Lesser Sulphur Crested (sulphurea sulphurea)
Citron-crested Cockatoo, C2,
Cacatua sulphurea citroncristata
Blue-eyed Cockatoo,
Cacatua ophthalmica
Moluccan Cockatoo, Salmon-crested Cockatoo, Seram, M2,
Cacatua moluccensis
Umbrella Cockatoo, U2,
Cacatua alba
Red-vented Cockatoo, RV2,
Cacatua haematuropygia
Goffin's Cockatoo, G2,
Cacatua goffini
Ducorps' Cockatoo, D2,
Cacatua ducorpsii
Subfamily Nymphicinae
*Cockatiel, 'Tiel,
Nymphicus hollandicus
Interesting Facts:
The list above is a traditional classification of the cockatoos. However, Brown & Toft (1999) performed molecular analysis on 15 out of the 18 recognised species in this group and found that
1.)The Cockatiel and the Gang-gang Cockatoo group together with the black cockatoos of the genus
Calyptorhynhus as a clade, indicating that they should move to the subfamily
Calyptorhynchinae, and the subfamily
Nymphicinae should deprecated.
2.)Major Mitchell's Cockatoo is basal to all other Cacatua species, indicating that its original placement in the monotypic genus
Lophocroa is valid.
Brown & Toft's Article
* Recent genetic research of the Major Mitchell's Cockatoo (Cacatualeadbeateri) rediscovered that this genus is not that closely related to the other White Cockatoos (Cacatua) as was generally accepted. Because of the outcome of this research the Major Mitchell's Cockatoo is now classified as the monotypic genus Lophocroa in stead of the genus Cacatua. His crest is like the crest of the Sulphur-crested Cockatoo (Cacatua galerita) and the Lesser Sulphur- crested Cockatoo (Cacatua sulphurea) point forwards, while the crest of the other White Cockatoos (Cacatua) are pointed backwards.
The appearance of the Galah(Eolophus roseicapillus)and genetic research made this species a monotypic genus as well: Eolophus. The extended genetic research proved that the Galah
(Eolophus roseicapillus) is more closely related to the Cockatiel (Nymphicus hollandicus) than
the White Cockatoos (Cacatua).
The biogeographical distribution of the cockatoos native to the Philippines, Indonesia and Papua New Guinea has not been explained yet. There is at least one Corella species and one bigger White Cockatoo species native to Australia that coexists in the some distributional (apart from the fact that all Australian cockatoos coexist with theGalah (Eolophus roseicapillus). Outside Australia, only one species is native to the bigger islands, with the exception of the islands Obi, Taliabu and Buru.
A lot of research has to be done the relationship among these non-Australian cockatoo species. The Salmon-crested Cockatoo (Cacatua moluccensis) and the White Cockatoo(Cacatua alba), both with their crests pointed backwards, inhabit the northern and southern islands of the Mollucas. They are very closely related related. There most closely related species is the Blue-eyed Cockatoo(Cacatua ophthalmica) native to the Bismarck Archipelago.
The beautiful Greater Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, the Triton Cockatoo (Cacatua galerita triton) is native to New Guinea. He is most closed related to the Lesser Sulphur-crested Cockatoo (Cacatua sulphurea) native to the Little Sunda Islands. The only obviously differences between these species are their sizes, the Abbott’s Lesser Sulphur-crested Cockatoo (Cacatua sulphurea abbotti) is almost as big as the the smallest species of the Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, the Eleonora Cockatoo (Cacatua galerita eleonora). Their distribution areas are not close to one another.
The Goffin’s Cockatoo (Cacatua goffini) native to the Tanimbar Islands belongs to the Corella group. Their existence on an island very close the the Australian coast is not uncommon, but it is hard to explain the presence of the Red-vernted Cockatoo (Cacatua haematuropygia) from the Philippines and the Ducorps’ Cockatoo (Cacatua ducorpsii) from the Solomon Islands. They must have crossed the distribution areas of the non-Corella species without interbreeding or staying. Further research is needed to explain this situation.
The Palm Cockatoos (Probosciger) is clearly distinguished from the Black Cockatoos (Calyptorhynchus), as well as the True Cockatoos (Cacatua). The Palm Cockatoo (Probosciger aterrimus) has a beautiful crest and a very powerful bill, his upper bill is huge and very sharp and does remind of a bill of the bigger macaw species. His bare skin area under his eyes are remarkably red, this reminds of the bigger macaws as well. The Black Cockatoos (Calyptorhynchus) however have a more compact bill and their head is fully covered with feathers. Their crest is small or even rudimentary. The Black Cockatoos (Calyptorhynchus) have a bigger resemblance with the True Cockatoos (Cacatua), both have colored feathers on their vent. Genetic research shows that the Black Cockatoos(Calyptorhynchus) and the True Cockatoos (Cacatua) are more closely related than to the Palm Cockatoos (Probosciger). The most prominent feature that distinguishes the Palm Cockatoo (Probosciger aterrimus) from the other cockatoos is the fact that he used artifacts, that is drumsticks, on the nest during the courtship display. Both cock and hen do this (they are not sexually dimorphic). The Black Cockatoos (Calyptorhynchus) are sexually dimorphic, by means of their overall coloring , the pattern of tail feathers and the color of the bill. Unlike other cockatoo species, the hen Black Cockatoo breeds alone.
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Feathers:
Cockatoos have 2 different types of crests, a recumbent (M2, U2, etc.) and a recursive (SC2s, etc.). They use these crests in a myriad of ways and it is up to a human to learn and interpret the signals of their bird. Cockatoos are the most feather expressive of the hookbills having total control over all their feathers.
Cockatoos produce the most powder down of all the hookbills. This powder is produced by specialized feathers. The powder is often stated as a reason for these birds becoming re-homed. The dust often contributes to breathing problems, over-heating of expensive electronics, or simply the CONSTANT dusting needed.
Noise:
Quote:
"A 747 Jumbo Jet produces as much as 140 decibels of noise. 105db is considered damaging to the ear. Peacocks have been registered at 115, Moluccans hold the record as the loudest bird on earth at 135db (average = 120db)"
San Diego Zoo
The rest of the cockatoos are not much better. While the M2s have more of a "jungle song" to their displaying other cockatoos have a very monotonous, loud," barking" display. Yet other cockatoos can have such a shrill, whistling type of display you will think you need to hide all the fine crystal.
All cockatoos have a tendency to let you know of their displeasure by assaulting you w/ their voice .... spoiled cockatoos can keep this up for hours on end and can take many years to undo. NEVER give a cockatoo new to your home more attention than you plan on giving them for the rest of their lives. Often a cockatoo re-homed due to screaming will do better w/ the problem simply because the problem (the person who spoiled them) is removed. Long time cockatoo owners have reported hearing loss.
Diet:
A cockatoo's diet should consist of a high quality pellet free of added sugar, colors, BHT and other hormones and ethoxyquin. Organic is best. Some pellets to consider are Harrisons, Scenic, Foundation Formula, TOPS. For further info on what's in a pellet and side by side comparisons:
artemisaviary.com/pellet.html (you must C&P into your browser, breeder-site).
Vegetables are a VERY important part of your cockatoo's diet. Try to buy as much organic as possible. Hormones for growth, pesticides, fungicides and other chemicals on our produce are being found to be much more detrimental to HUMANS than once thought ... so imagine what it does to a body the size of our birds,
Fruits should only be given occasionally. While an important part of a wild cockatoo's diet this is less so for captive birds. The wild birds need the sugars, naturally produced in high amounts in fruit, for they are constantly flying, foraging, regulating their body temperature, and raising young.
In our captive cockatoos, no matter how enriched you attempt to make their lives, this extra energy simply is not needed and can possibly lead to problem behaviors because the "rush" is there w/ no way to expend it. One of the first things I do when I get a plucking cockatoo or one showing neurotic behaviors is to put them on a natural pellet (I use Harrisons) and to cut out sugary foods. Dry fruit should be avoided except as a possible reward or used as a "sweetener" when making bird breads. Dried fruits are concentrated "sugar balls" w/ fruit flavoring!
Behaviors:
Cockatoos are in the top of birds being re-homed. Their voice, the tendency for neurotic behaviors, biting and a plethora of other "issues" have them bouncing from home to home or into rescues. Breeders and pet stores do not tell you of the Dr. Jekyll and Hyde personalities of these birds. They advertise them as "love sponges", "Velcro birds", "perfect family pets" (guess what NONE of my large cockatoos like small children), the "Golden Lab of the bird world". All this is true ... of a
VERY YOUNG (Dr. Jekyll) cockatoo.
Then between the age of 2-5 years of age (depending on the species) ... you meet Mr. Hyde. A bird that no longer desires to be with his parents (the person who hand fed him ... one reason you should NEVER hand-feed) because instinct tells them to go make a life for themselves ... but guess what? They are stuck w/ their parents! This brings out the many undesired behaviors of screaming, plucking, mutilating, biting. No longer are they a "family pet" but pick one person as their mate and will chase, scream at, and bite the rest of the household because of jealousy. They may start biting their chosen person to try to drive them away from the rest of the family in an attempt to get the person they settled on as a mate to go and make a life w/ them ... and ONLY them. Does this sound like any Golden Lab you have ever met? How about a love sponge? Oh and the Velcro personalities of these birds ... can often lead to problem behaviors and psychological problems.
I know much of this sounds negative but read on ... read it all. There actually ARE ways to live w/ a cockatoo .... but never mistake them for a pet. They are what they are ... wild animals. Learn to live w/ that and you may be a person that can happily co-exist w/ a cockatoo.
The M2s are often the most noted for severe issues but often you will see more U2s in need of a home. One reason is that U2s breed much more prolifically (for several reasons). The other is that the M2 is a rather regal bird. The U2 is a cross of regal-ness of the M2 and the hyper-ness of a G2. They are like teenagers full of vim and vigor ... the classic ADHD child. M2s are thinkers and U2s are "jump first think about it later" birds. M2s try to outsmart you and U2s try to outrun you. M2s are the kings and queens of the courtyard and the U2s are the jesters.
Displaying.Expect at least 2 displays daily from a cockatoo. This displaying behavior should never be stifled ... it is who they are. They often like to loudly great the day and loudly put the day to bed. Some cockatoos may only display once a day. Most of these birds do the evening display but your mileage will vary.
Biting though undesired will occur w/ 99% of the birds. They use it as a form of communication. Move this way, move that way, move away from this/them as I perceive them as a threat, don't do that, don't stop doing that, I'm mad, I'm frightened ... the list is endless. Males are more noted for biting aggressively. Breeders loose many females when breeding cockatoos because males are known to kill their mates. They may get along famously for a while (sometimes many years) and then one day the male "snaps" and the female, unlike in the wild, has no escape. This is at the top of the reasons of why many cockatoos are re-homed.
Some cockatoos are just naturally nippy ... the smaller the cockatoo the most likely this behavior. G2s, RB2s, MM2s are noted for this behavior. They mean no harm, they simply do not understand that we do not have a protective layer of feathers to protect us from the nips. This behavior can be slightly modified but do not ever expect it to disappear.
The beak on large cockatoos is extremely strong. The beaks on all cockatoos have a 3 point "prong". The top beak is a formidable dagger but unlike other hookbills the lower beak forms a very sharp U. If bitten by a cockatoo hard enough to break skin ... expect 3 wounds. The beak on smaller cockatoos is much sharper simply because the thickness is not there making them more "knife like".
I have had broken skin from my small cockatoos more often because of the sharpness of their beak even though the power is not near that of the larger cockatoos. If a large cockatoo bites you hard enough to break skin you can expect to feel pain for a while because of the force that beak can apply. Muscle damage, facial disfigurement and broken digits have all been noted by people who have kept cockatoos.
This is why a shoulder bird can be a very dangerous bird.
Dominance Issues. You can have dominance issues w/ either sex but most generally males. Birds naturally "behave" better for men than woman so if you are a female keeper you may have to work twice as hard to establish a level of respect from a bird. It is very do-able, just more work most times. Instinct tells these birds to be more attracted to the bigger stronger being. Some birds have a tendency to get "full of themselves" the higher they are ... these birds should have lower play areas and the head to heart rule should be followed as much as possible.
Screaming can become a major issue w/ cockatoos. Screaming is listed separately from displaying for one is a natural behavior while the other is a man-made problem. They use their voice to get what they want. I think they know it has the ability to drive us nuts. If you give them what they want you are making the problem worse. Screaming can be the toughest behavior problem to live w/ because of the volume of their voice there is no escape aside from rifle range earmuffs or leaving the house. It is a fixable problem but one that requires long term patience and dedication. The simplest thing for this is the "ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" ... don't spoil the cockatoo.
Plucking will be listed under behavior and medical.
